How can we help you?

MyRoofMap is a fast, web-based roof measuring tool. You pull up a property on satellite imagery, trace the roof, enter the pitch, and get square footage plus the linear feet of ridges, hips, valleys, and more. It runs right in your web browser at myroofmap.com, so there is nothing to install.

What it is not: it is not an automated, certified, boots-on-roof measurement service. You are the one tracing the outline and entering the pitch, which keeps it quick and affordable. Think of it as a pre-bid and planning tool you finish on-site.

Here is the whole thing, start to finish:

• Step 1: Click Buy new report (or New Report if you are a supplier rep) in the top bar
• Step 2: Type the property address and confirm the pin landed on the right house
• Step 3: Trace the roof outline so it matches the actual roof edges
• Step 4: Use the pitch tool to draw a slope line and enter your pitch, like 6:12
• Step 5: Add any ridges, hips, valleys, rakes, eaves, and flash lines your job needs
• Step 6: Review your square footage and totals, then generate your report

Click the first item in the top navigation bar. For pay-as-you-go accounts it reads Buy new report. For supplier reps it reads New Report. That drops you onto a fresh map ready for an address.

MyRoofMap charges when you pick an address, before the roof data loads. If you do not have a card on file yet, you will be prompted to add one before the map runs.

• Pay-as-you-go: $14.99 per map
• Supplier reps: $9.99 per map

Across the top of the app you will find:

• Buy new report / New Report: starts a fresh map on a new address
• My Reports: every map you have made, listed by date and address
• My Customers: (supplier reps only) the customers you run reports for
• Billing: your saved card and payment details
• Settings: your profile, company name, logo, and preferences
• Help Center: these FAQs and how-to guides
• Share & Earn: opens your referral link so you can share MyRoofMap and earn

Clicking the myroofmap.com logo in the top-left always takes you back to your home screen.

Hover or click the avatar pill in the top-right corner to open your account menu. It shows your plan strip at the top, your company and name, and quick links.

• Plan strip: reads Pay-as-you-go for individual accounts, or Branch Billing for reps billed through their supplier branch
• + Add your company name: shows up if you have not set a company yet, so your reports carry your brand
• Account Settings: jumps to your full settings
• Help Center: these guides
• Sign Out: logs you out

Click My Reports in the top bar. Every map you have run is saved there automatically, listed with the property address and date.

• Click any report to reopen it, view it, or generate the PDF again
• Re-opening a saved map does not charge you again
• Make sure you are signed in with the same email you used when you ran it

If a report you expected is missing, email us at support@myroofmap.com with your account email and the job address and our team will track it down.

If you are a supplier rep, a Customer dropdown sits to the left of the address box. Pick the customer this report is for before you search the address so the map gets filed under the right account.

• Click the dropdown and search by company name
• Select the customer to tag the report to them
• No customer in the list yet? Use the Add one link in the dropdown, or manage everyone under My Customers in the top bar

Pay-as-you-go accounts do not see this dropdown. Your reports are simply filed under your own account.

The view switcher sits in the top-right corner of the map. You get two choices:

• Satellite: the aerial photo of the roof, with street labels on top. This is what you trace on, and it is the default
• Map: a plain road map. Handy for getting your bearings or confirming you are on the right street

You will do almost all of your work in Satellite view since that is where the actual roof shows up. There is no Terrain option, just these two.

Getting close to the roof makes tracing far more precise.

• Zoom: use the + / - buttons on the map, or just scroll your mouse wheel over the map (no Ctrl key needed)
• Full screen: click the full-screen button in the map corner to expand the map to fill your screen, then press it again or hit Esc to come back

The Tooltips pill turns the built-in hover help on and off. It glows orange when tooltips are on and goes gray when they are off.

• On: hovering a drawing tool pops up a short how-to video for that tool, and an on-map hint banner guides your next step
• Off: those popups and the hint banner go quiet for a cleaner workspace

Leave it on while you are learning, then click it off once you know the tools. Your choice is remembered the next time you open the app.

Roof Anatomy is the green button above the address box. Click it to open a clean, labeled diagram that shows exactly where the ridge, hip, valley, rake, eave, flashing, and step flashing live on a roof.

It is a quick reference for when you are deciding which line type to draw on a given edge. Click the X or the backdrop to close it and get back to your map.

How-to Video is the green button next to Roof Anatomy. It opens a full walkthrough video that plays with sound and shows the whole flow: tracing a structure, entering pitch, and adding ridges, hips, valleys, and flash lines.

If your browser starts it muted, just click Click to unmute in the corner of the player. Close it any time with the X.

Report bad map is the orange button above the address box. If the imagery is badly out of date, too blurry to trace, or clearly the wrong building, click it to send our team a flag with the address.

• First, try the quick fixes: drag the pin to the right house, or zoom in to load a sharper layer
• If it is still unusable, hit Report bad map so we can look into it
• You can also email support@myroofmap.com with the address

Yes. The toolbar has Undo and Redo buttons (the round arrows). They glow orange when there is something to undo or redo and stay gray when there is not.

• Undo steps back through your recent drawing actions, up to 10 steps
• Redo steps forward again if you went back too far
• Keyboard shortcuts work too: Ctrl/Cmd + Z to undo, Ctrl/Cmd + Shift + Z or Ctrl/Cmd + Y to redo

MyRoofMap runs in any web browser, so it will open on a phone. But the tracing tools want a mouse: dropping points precisely on a small touchscreen is fiddly. For building maps, reach for a laptop or desktop.

Your phone is great for the field side of things: pulling up a saved report, viewing the numbers, and sharing the PDF all work fine on mobile.

A few fast paths to help, all built into the app:

• How-to Video button above the address box: the full walkthrough with sound
• Roof Anatomy button: a labeled diagram of every roof line type
• Tooltips toggle: leave it orange (on) to get hover help on each tool
• Help Center in the top bar: these FAQs and guides

Still stuck? Email our team at support@myroofmap.com and we will walk you through it. We are on it.

Our AI traces a starting outline for you the moment a roof loads, but it is a draft, not the final word. You shape it to match the real roof and every number updates live as you go.

• Drag any corner dot to line it up with the actual roof edge
• Drag the center dot to slide the whole outline into place
• Click an edge to drop in a new corner where you need more detail
• Right-click a corner to delete it

If the auto outline is way off, or you want to add a building it missed, draw your own. Pick the Struct tool, then click your way around the building.

• Click each corner of the building, one at a time
• A green preview shape fills in as you place points
• Click back on your very first corner to close it
• The on-map hint walks you through each step as you draw

Need more detail on one side, like a bump-out or a jog in the wall? Add a corner right where you need it.

• Hover over the edge of a selected structure between two corners
• Click that edge to drop a brand new corner there
• Drag your new corner out to match the roof

Every corner is grabbable. Just click a structure to select it, then drag.

• Click the structure so its corner dots appear
• Press and drag any corner dot to a new spot
• Drag the center dot instead to move the entire structure without reshaping it

Placed one corner too many, or one that pulls the shape out of line? Right-click it.

• Right-click the corner dot you want gone
• The outline closes the gap automatically and the area updates
• A structure needs at least three corners, so the last few are kept

An outline only becomes a measured structure once it is closed. Closing is one click.

• Place at least four corners around the building
• Click back on your first corner to snap it shut
• The shape fills solid green the moment it closes

If it is not closing, you are probably not clicking quite close enough to that first corner. Zoom in a little and aim right at it.

Green is our way of saying the structure is closed and counted. The fill is a soft green tint with a green border.

• A green-filled shape is a finished structure feeding your totals
• Footprint, surface area, and perimeter appear for it in the side panel
• While you are still placing points, you see a lighter green preview that has not been counted yet

Absolutely. A house plus a garage, an addition, a shed, a detached shop: draw as many structures as the job has and we add them all together.

• Finish and close your first structure
• Pick the Struct tool again and trace the next building
• Each one gets its own name, pitch, and measurements
• Your totals roll every structure into one material order

We auto-name them for you (Main, Garage, Addition, Shed, and so on) and you can rename any of them in the side panel.

We built the grab behavior so the cursor always tells you what your next click will do. There are two simple zones.

• Press right on an active dot and you grab it to move that endpoint (you will see the move cursor)
• Press a little off the dot and you start a brand new line instead
• When you start or end a line near an existing corner, it glues exactly onto that corner

That glue is what lets you chain lines cleanly. Running eaves around a perimeter, for example, each new line locks onto the previous corner so there are no tiny gaps.

Yes to both. The round orange undo and redo buttons live in the toolbar, and they cover your lines and your structures.

• Click undo to step back, redo to step forward
• History goes ten steps deep
• Keyboard works too: Ctrl or Cmd plus Z to undo, Ctrl or Cmd plus Shift plus Z (or Ctrl/Cmd plus Y) to redo
• A button greys out when there is nothing left to undo or redo in that direction

If a structure is just wrong, you do not have to fight it. Clear it and redraw.

• Select the structure and right-click it to delete the whole thing
• Or use the delete button next to its name in the side panel
• Searching a fresh address re-runs detection and clears the old map
• Undo can also walk you back step by step if you only went one move too far

Ridges, hips, valleys, and the rest are just as easy to remove as they are to draw.

• Right-click either endpoint of the line to delete the entire line
• The linear footage for that line type drops out of your totals instantly
• Made a bigger mess? Tap undo to roll the last few line actions back

Pitch is set with a simple plus and minus stepper, not by drawing a line. Our AI takes a first guess at the pitch, and your job is to confirm it matches the real roof.

• Use the minus and plus buttons to dial the pitch from 2:12 up to 20:12
• There is a global pitch that you can apply to every structure at once
• Each structure can also carry its own pitch if the roof has sections that differ
• Click to confirm the pitch so we know it has been checked, not just guessed

Pitch matters: a steeper pitch stretches the flat footprint into a larger surface area, so the wrong pitch throws your squares off. Confirm it before you generate the report.

Ridges are the horizontal peaks where two slopes meet at the top. We total their linear feet for ridge cap. Ridge lines draw in red.

• Pick the Ridges tool
• Click one end of the peak, then click the other end
• The length shows live in feet as you go
• Drag either endpoint to fine-tune, or right-click to delete

Hips are the sloped edges that run from the peak down to an outside corner of the roof. Hip lines draw in orange.

• Pick the Hips tool
• Click the top of the hip, then click the bottom
• Start near an existing corner and it snaps right onto it
• Drag an endpoint to adjust, right-click to delete

Valleys are the V-shaped channels where two roof planes meet inward and shed water. Valley lines draw in blue.

• Pick the Valleys tool
• Click one end of the valley, then the other
• Watch the live length so you can match the run exactly
• Drag to adjust, right-click to delete

Rakes are the sloped edges of a gable end, running from the peak down the side. Rake lines draw in purple.

• Pick the Rakes tool
• Click the top of the gable edge, then the bottom
• Chain it onto an eave or ridge corner and it snaps on cleanly
• Drag an endpoint to adjust, right-click to delete

Eaves are the horizontal bottom edges where the gutters typically run. Eave lines draw in cyan.

• Pick the Eaves tool
• Click one end of the bottom edge, then the other
• Because each new line glues to the last corner, you can run eaves right around a perimeter
• Drag to adjust, right-click to delete

Flashing is the metal trim around chimneys, walls, and features. Flashing lines draw in yellow.

• Pick the Flashing tool
• Click one end of the run, then the other
• The linear feet add to your flashing total
• Drag an endpoint to adjust, right-click to delete

Step flashing is the stepped metal that runs up where the roof meets a vertical wall, like a chimney or a dormer side. Step flashing lines draw in pink.

• Pick the Step Flash tool
• Click the bottom of the wall line, then the top
• The run totals into your step flashing measurement
• Drag to adjust, right-click to delete

Each line type has its own color so you can read a busy roof at a glance.

• Ridge: red
• Hip: orange
• Valley: blue
• Rake: purple
• Eave: cyan
• Flashing: yellow
• Step flashing: pink

See a small question mark by a drawing tool? Hover it and a short how-to video pops up showing that exact tool in action.

• Every drawing tool has its own clip: structures, ridges, hips, valleys, rakes, eaves, flashing, and step flashing
• Hover the ? to play it, move away to dismiss it
• It is the fastest way to see the motion before you try it yourself

There is a Tooltips toggle pill in the toolbar that controls those hover help videos.

• Orange means tooltips are on and the ? badges show their videos
• Gray means tooltips are off and the ? badges step out of your way
• We remember your choice on this device, so it sticks between visits

Complexity is how we set your waste percentage: the extra material you order to cover cuts. Pick Simple, Medium, or Complex.

• Simple (10%): a basic gable or flat roof, 1 to 2 planes, minimal cutting
• Medium (15%): a few hips and valleys, an L-shape or T-shape, roughly 3 to 6 planes
• Complex (20%): lots of angles, dormers, and features, 7 or more planes

Your surface area gets multiplied by that waste factor to land on the squares we tell you to order, so the complexity you choose moves the final number.

Live, the whole time. There is no recalculate button to hunt for.

• Move a corner and the footprint, surface area, and perimeter refresh on the spot
• Draw or delete a line and its linear feet jump in or out of the totals
• Change a pitch or a complexity and the squares recompute right away

We start with the footprint, the flat area inside the outline you trace on the satellite image. Then we multiply that by a slope factor based on the pitch you set, because a sloped roof has more surface than its flat shadow on the ground.

• Trace the outline so it hugs the actual roof edges
• Set the pitch for that structure
• We multiply footprint by the pitch factor to get the real roof area
• Divide by 100 to get roofing squares (1 square = 100 sq ft)

So two roofs with the same footprint can have very different square footage if one is steeper. That is why pitch matters so much.

Both, depending on the address. Where Google's Solar data covers the property, we read the roof slope straight from the aerial analysis and fill in the pitch for you, shown in the usual rise over run like 6/12.

• If we have Solar coverage, the pitch is auto-filled and the structures load with it already applied
• If there is no coverage for that address, we default to 6/12 so you have a sensible starting point
• Either way, you can change it. The pitch is yours to set

Use the pitch stepper next to the structure. Tap up or down to walk the pitch through the standard roofing values from 2/12 all the way to 20/12.

• Set one structure's pitch from its own pitch control
• Use the global pitch control to apply one value to every structure at once
• For a flat or near-flat roof, drop it to the lowest setting (treated as flat, roughly 0/12)

The moment you change a pitch, the square footage recalculates and the report marks the pitch as adjusted rather than an auto estimate.

Yes. Every structure you draw carries its own pitch, so a steep main house and a low-slope addition each get the slope that fits them.

• Draw each section or building as its own outline
• Set the pitch on each one individually
• We work out the area for each piece on its own, then add them into one total

If most of the roof shares one slope, set the global pitch first to cover everything, then fine-tune the odd section. Faster than doing them one by one.

It comes from Google's Solar building analysis, which reads the actual roof planes from aerial imagery and reports the slope in degrees. We convert that to the rise over run you see, like 6/12.

• Coverage is good in most metros and suburbs, thinner in rural areas
• When there is no coverage, you will not see an auto pitch, and we fall back to 6/12 for you to adjust
• The auto value rounds to the nearest standard pitch, so a real 6.4/12 reads as 6/12

Waste is tied to how complex the roof is. When the roof loads, we look at how many roof planes there are and pick a starting complexity for you, which sets the waste percentage.

• Simple roofs add about 10 percent
• Medium complexity adds about 15 percent
• Complex roofs, lots of planes and cuts, add about 20 percent

The waste is baked into your squares total, so the number you read already includes that cushion. Change the complexity and the squares update right away.

A roofing square is 100 square feet of roof surface. We take your real roof area, after the pitch factor, apply the waste percentage, and divide by 100 to give you squares.

Because the waste is already folded in, the squares figure is meant to be an ordering number, not the bare surface area. Set the complexity to match the roof and the cushion comes along automatically.

When the outline is traced cleanly and the pitch is right, it is plenty close for sizing a job, talking to a homeowner, and starting a material order. The slope math and waste are handled for you.

It is still a measurement made from above. Overhangs, tree cover, slight image tilt, and a rounded auto pitch all introduce small errors. Do not lock in a bid or final material order without confirming on the roof.

Yes. Anything you can see from above can be traced and measured.

• Flat and low-slope: set the pitch to flat. The footprint is the roof area, no slope factor added
• Commercial: same workflow as a house, and a big simple flat roof is one of the easiest things to trace
• Metal and standing seam: the metal does not change the area. Trace and pitch it like any roof

We do a lot for you. We pull the pitch from Solar data, pick a starting complexity, fold in waste, and drop in roof outlines to start from. But you stay in the driver's seat for the final outline and pitch.

• You confirm the outline matches the real roof, not an algorithm's best guess
• You confirm the pitch, especially where Solar coverage is thin
• That keeps the tool fast and affordable, and keeps the report honest as a planning estimate you finish on-site

It is a quick pre-bid tool with smart assists, not a certified measurement service. That is on purpose.

The imagery is public aerial and satellite photography served through Google's mapping data, which is sourced from providers like Airbus and Maxar. The same imagery powers the Solar pitch read.

• We do not fly the planes or own the photos, we read from these public providers
• Coverage and sharpness vary by location, with dense metros looking the best
• The roof loads with labels on by default so you can confirm you are on the right house

Aerial imagery usually refreshes every 1 to 3 years, and it varies a lot by area. We do not set that schedule, the providers do.

Good news: an older photo rarely affects your numbers. The roof's shape and footprint almost always stay the same even when the shingles have been swapped, so you can still trace it and set today's pitch.

Usually not. A re-roof swaps materials but keeps the same outline and slope, so the photo being a couple of years behind does not change your area.

• Trace the outline as you see it, the footprint is still right
• Set the pitch to the real slope, which a re-roof does not change
• If the structure itself was altered, like a new addition or a raised roofline, draw to the current layout and field-set the pitch

Rural spots and smaller towns often get lower-resolution coverage. That comes straight from the providers and we cannot sharpen it on our end. Sorry for the hassle.

• Zoom in a notch, sometimes a crisper layer loads
• Toggle between Map and Hybrid views to see if labels and edges read more clearly
• Trace to the best edges you can see, then confirm the outline on-site
• If it is genuinely unusable, file a Report bad map so we can take a look

Use the view control on the map. We default to Hybrid, which is the satellite photo with street and label overlays, because it makes it easy to confirm you are on the right property.

• Hybrid: satellite imagery plus labels, best for tracing and confirming the address
• Map: the plain road map, handy for sanity-checking the street and lot lines when imagery is murky

Happens most on rural roads and fresh subdivisions where addresses are fuzzy. Quick fix: drag the pin onto the correct roof and the map re-centers there.

• Grab the pin and drop it on the right structure
• Re-run your search with the full ZIP added, like '1234 Oak St, Tulsa OK 74101'
• For a brand-new home that is not in the address data yet, pan to the spot and place the pin yourself

New builds, recent subdivisions, and rural addresses often have not made it into the mapping databases yet. A few ways around it:

• Type the full address with city, state, and ZIP and pick from the suggestions
• Try just the house number and street with no abbreviations
• Search a nearby intersection or a neighbor's address, then pan over and drop the pin on the right roof

Once the pin is on the structure, you can trace and measure normally even if the search never found the exact address.

Report bad map opens a short flow that files a case with our team so a human can look at the address. It walks you through a few quick steps.

• Confirm the address (it pre-fills from your most recent map)
• Pick what went wrong, such as a wrong outline, a blank or blurry tile, or the wrong kind of building
• Review the exact satellite tile we pulled and flag it if it does not match what you saw
• Add a note if you want, then send it to support

We review and get back to you within one business day. If the imagery was the problem, we add free maps to your account so you can try again at no extra cost.

Every map includes a Storm History card at no extra cost. We pull severe-weather records for the property's county and forecast zone straight from the official NOAA / NCEI Storm Events Database, so you can see what the roof has been through before you bid.

• A Most recent highlight at the top: the latest event, its size, the date, and the area
• Per-peril summary chips with a count for each: Hail, Wind, Tornado, and Winter (tropical and lightning show up too where they apply)
• A full Event History list you can expand, with a Download CSV button to pull every event into a spreadsheet
• A source line showing it came from NOAA / NCEI and how many years back we looked

Each peril gets its own chip with a count, and the magnitude is shown next to each event so you can tell a nuisance event from a roof-wrecker.

• Hail: the magnitude is the hail size. Bigger stones mean a stronger case for a full replacement
• Wind: the magnitude is the gust or wind speed. High-wind events line up with lifted or missing shingles
• Tornado: counts confirmed tornado tracks that passed through the area
• Winter: covers snow, ice, and winter-storm events that stress a roof over time

Expand the Event History to see every event with its date, peril, type, magnitude, and the area it hit. The Download CSV button hands the whole list to your customer or your file.

The Property Information card pulls together two free sources so you walk in knowing the property. Hover the ? next to any field for a plain-language explanation of where that value comes from.

• From county assessor records (where covered): Year Built, Building Size, Lot Size, Property Type, and Market Value
• From permit history (PermitStack): Roof Age (the date of the most recent roofing permit), Last Roof By, Last Roof Value, Last Permit Activity, Permits on File, Permit History span, New Construction, Property Type, Jurisdiction, and Systems on Record

Both sets carry straight onto the proposal, so the property facts travel with the PDF you hand the homeowner.

Year Built comes from official county assessor records, and we have those wired up county by county. When the property sits in a covered county, you'll see Year Built right at the top of the card. When it doesn't, that field simply won't appear yet.

• Most of the permit-based fields come from PermitStack, which is a permit database, not an assessor, so it does not carry a true year built
• The closest permit-based stand-in is the New Construction field: when a ground-up build permit exists, its year is the best available proxy
• Older homes often predate digital permits, so a blank here usually means the record is old, not that anything is wrong

Under the Property Information summary you can open a full Permit History list for the address, drawn from the same permit lookup.

• Each row shows the date, a category tag, the description, the contractor and job value when reported, and the status
• Roofing and structural permits are tagged in orange so they're easy to spot
• A Download CSV button exports the whole permit history to a spreadsheet

The contractor name and declared job value only appear when the permit office actually publishes them, so some rows will leave those blank.

Recent Roofing Nearby lists recent roofing permits around the property so you can see neighborhood activity before you bid.

• Permits are pulled within a set radius and a recent time window, and the header tells you exactly what those are
• Each entry is ranked by distance and shows the address, a description, the contractor and value when reported, and the date
• If nothing recent turns up nearby, the section says so rather than guessing

Tap the green Roof Anatomy pill next to the address to open a labeled diagram that shows exactly where each roof line lives. It's a quick reference while you trace, so you know which line type to draw where.

• Ridge: the horizontal peak where two slopes meet at the top
• Hip: a sloped edge running from the peak down to a corner of the roof
• Valley: the V where two roof planes meet inward
• Rake: the sloped edge of a gable, running from the peak down the side
• Eave: the horizontal bottom edge, where the gutters usually run
• Flash: metal trim around chimneys, walls, and features
• Step flashing: the stepped metal pieces running up where the roof meets a vertical wall, like a chimney or dormer

Once your roof outline is closed and your pitch is entered, hit Generate Report. We save the proposal and take you to a preview, and from there you can download the PDF.

• Your squares are calculated from the roof area plus the waste factor tied to your complexity setting
• The proposal carries your materials, your manufacturer choice, and the Property Information and Storm History from the same map
• If you set up your company details, your name and branding ride along on the proposal too

Yes, every proposal is saved automatically the moment you generate it. You never have to remember to hit save.

• Your most recent proposals show right in the editor, listed by address with the date, roof area, and squares
• Open the full list from My Reports (suppliers see My Customers instead, grouped by customer)
• From any row you can view the report, open or copy a presentation link, or download the PDF

Click an address to load it straight back onto the map and pick up editing where you left off.

Almost every download hiccup is the browser stepping in. Run through these and you should be set.

• Popup blocked? Look for a blocked-popup notice in your browser bar and choose Allow, then click download again
• Ad blocker on? Pause it for the page, or try an Incognito or Private window
• Make sure the roof outline is fully closed and a pitch is entered: an unfinished proposal won't export
• If you're on Safari, try Chrome or Firefox

Absolutely. The PDF is yours to send however you like.

• Download it from the proposal preview or from any row in your history
• Attach it to an email like any other PDF
• On a phone, use your device's Share menu once the file is open

We don't watermark the PDF and we don't limit who you send it to.

Yes, two easy ways, and neither one makes your customer sign up.

• Send the PDF: the downloaded file is self-contained. Email it, text it, or print it, and they can open it with no login
• Send a link: use the share link to send a clean web view of the proposal that opens right in their browser

If they later want to measure their own roofs, that's when they'd need their own account.

From a proposal you can grab a share link that points to a hosted view at myroofmap.com. Copy it and paste it anywhere.

• The Copy button drops the link on your clipboard and confirms with a quick Copied! note
• From your history, the link button creates a shareable presentation link the first time and reuses it after that
• Anyone with the link can open the proposal. No account needed on their end

Share & Earn is our referral program. Share your personal link, and when someone you referred pays for their first map, you earn free maps.

• Copy your referral link, share it through your device, or post it to X, Facebook, SMS, or email right from the share window
• You can also email an invite to a friend directly, with an optional personal note
• The window keeps a running tally of how many invites you've Sent, how many are Pending, how many were Granted, and your Free maps earned

Each paid referral earns you two free maps after a 7-day refund window, and the friend you send gets a discount on their first roof measurement.

If you're a supplier rep, My Customers is your home base. You set up a profile for each contractor you work with, then build maps on their behalf.

• Add a customer with their company name, logo, manufacturer, price per square, licenses, and contact details
• Pick a customer before you build a map, and their branding flows onto the proposal and presentation
• Your customer list and their saved proposals live together, grouped by customer, so you can jump back to any job

As long as your account is active, your proposals stay put. We don't expire them out from under you.

• Active accounts: proposals are kept and stay listed in your history
• You can reload any past proposal to view it, re-share it, or download a fresh PDF
• Older jobs stay in your list right alongside recent ones

Head to myroofmap.com and click Sign In, then enter the email and password tied to your account.

• Use the same email you signed up with
• Once you are in, you land on the map and can start a new report right away
• Your account works in any web browser, so you can pick up where you left off from any device

• Go to myroofmap.com and click Sign In
• Click Forgot password?
• Enter your email and check your inbox for a reset link
• The link expires in 30 minutes, so use it right away

Your reports are saved automatically, so a missing one almost always comes down to one of these:

• Make sure you are signed in to the same email account you used when you ran the report
• Open My Reports from the top nav and search by the property address
• If your browser closed before the report finished generating, it may not have saved

Still cannot find it? Email us your account email and the property address and our team will look it up on our end.

Open the account menu in the top-right corner and choose Account Settings.

• Update your name, company name, and logo so they appear on your reports
• Add or change your profile photo
• Your changes apply to new reports you generate after saving

Yes. One MyRoofMap account works everywhere. Sign in with the same email on any device and your reports follow you.

• Your saved reports live with your account, not with one device
• The tracing tools work best on a laptop or desktop with a bigger screen and a mouse
• Pulling up a finished report to show a customer works fine on a phone or tablet in the field

If you signed up with a supplier email, we automatically link your account to your company and your branch. The account menu shows your company name with your branch and state underneath so you always know which branch you are working under.

MyRoofMap is pay-per-map, so you only pay for the addresses you actually run. There are no monthly fees on a pay-as-you-go account.

• Retail: $14.99 per map plus tax
• Supplier (wholesale): $9.99 per map plus tax
• You are charged per address, not per edit, so refining a report you already paid for is free

It means that report did not cost you anything. When a free map credit is on your account, we apply it automatically to your next report, so the charge shows as $0.00 and the line reads Credit Used instead of a payment ID.

• Credits are used automatically on your next report, oldest first
• A $0.00 line is a real, fully usable report, just a free one
• When you have credits, you will see a banner on your Billing page telling you how many free maps you have left

Your card is charged the moment you select an address to run, before we show you the roof data. This pay-first flow is how we keep the price low.

• Pick an address, the charge goes through, then your roof report generates
• If you have a free credit, it is used first and the charge is $0.00
• Running the same address for the same customer again does not charge you twice, you can keep editing that report for free

• Click Billing in the top nav
• Under Payment Method, click Add Payment Method or Update Payment Method
• Enter your card details and save

Your saved card shows the brand, last four digits, and expiration so you can confirm the right card is on file.

Open Billing from the top nav. The Billing page shows your most recent charges, and clicking View All Charges opens your full history.

• Each line shows the property address, date, amount, and status
• Search by address, or sort by date or amount
• Download the PDF for any report right from the history

On the full Billing History page we show 50 charges per page. Use the page buttons at the bottom to move through older charges.

• The footer tells you exactly which charges you are viewing, like 'Showing 1 to 50 of 120 charges'
• Search and sort apply across your whole history, not just the page you are on
• Filtering or searching jumps you back to the first page so you never land on an empty one

On either the Billing page or the full Billing History page, click Report a billing issue. Pick the closest match, add any detail that helps us find the charge, and submit.

• Wrong amount, a charge you do not recognize, a duplicate charge, a payment-method snag, or a refund request, just pick one
• Adding the date, amount, or address helps us track it down fast
• We review your case and email you back within one business day

Demo accounts are set up by our team for walkthroughs and training. They bypass payment entirely, so you can run reports without any card being charged.

• No real charges are ever made on a demo account
• It is meant for trying the tool, not for live customer work
• Reports from a demo account are clearly demo reports

A supplier account is built for reps who run maps on behalf of the contractors they serve. It looks and works a little differently from a standalone retail account.

• You get supplier pricing of $9.99 per map instead of the $14.99 retail price
• You manage a list of customers and run each map under the right customer
• Your account menu shows your company and branch instead of a personal company prompt
• Your nav has My Customers, and your reports are organized by customer

When you sign up with your supplier email, we link your account to your company and the specific branch you work out of. From then on, every map you run is tied to that branch.

• Your company name and branch appear in the account menu in the top-right corner
• The branch and state show right under your company name so it is always clear which location you are under
• Your pricing and billing follow your branch

Setup starts the moment you sign up with your supplier email. We recognize the email, place you on supplier pricing, and connect you to your branch.

• Sign up with your work email so we can link you to your company automatically
• Confirm your branch and state in the account menu
• Once you are linked, you will see My Customers in the nav, ready for you to add the contractors you serve

Branch billing decides who covers the cost of the maps you run. Your branch can be set up one of two ways:

• Central (branch billing): the branch pays for the maps its reps run, so you do not manage a personal card. Your account menu shows a Branch Billing label.
• Individual: each rep pays with their own card on file. You will see a Billing link in your nav to manage that card, and the menu shows Pay-as-you-go.

We set your branch to the right mode for you, so you just run maps. The label in your account menu tells you which mode you are on at a glance.

Because your account is linked to a specific branch, we surface that right in the account menu so you always know exactly which company and branch you are working under.

• Your company name is on the top line
• Your branch and state sit right below it
• A billing label, either Branch Billing or Pay-as-you-go, tells you who is covering the maps

Supplier reps get our wholesale rate of $9.99 per map, versus the $14.99 retail price a standalone user pays. Same tool, same report, lower per-map cost.

• Supplier pricing applies automatically once your account is linked to your company
• You pay per address you run, not per edit
• No coupon code or special steps needed, the rate follows your account

Credits work the same for everyone. When a free map credit is on your account, it is applied automatically to your next report, which then shows as $0.00 with a Credit Used label.

• Credits are used automatically, you do not need to enter anything
• A $0.00 credited report is a full, usable report
• When you have credits, your Billing page shows how many free maps are left

As a supplier rep, you run each map under a specific customer so the report carries that contractor's details and stays organized under their name.

• Add the contractors you serve under My Customers first
• Start a New Report, choose the customer it is for, then enter the property address
• Generate the report, and it is saved under that customer for you to share or download

Your contractors live under My Customers in the top nav. Each customer keeps their own brand details and their own set of reports.

• Add a customer with their company name, logo, contact, and brand colors so reports look like theirs
• Open a customer to see every report you have run for them
• Your My Reports view is organized around your customers, not a flat list

The reports you run live under your account and are organized by the customer you ran them for. You manage and share them from your own My Customers and My Reports views.

• Each report is grouped under the customer it was created for
• When you generate a report for a customer, we create a shareable link so you can send it to that contractor
• The contractor does not need a MyRoofMap account to open a report you share with them

Our team supports supplier reps directly. The fastest paths:

• For a billing question, use Report a billing issue on the Billing page, and we reply within one business day
• For anything else, email support@myroofmap.com with your branch and a quick note
• Tell us your company and branch so we can route your case to the right place fast